At the end of the earth

We left El Calafate in glorious sunshine and took a short flight to Ushuaia, which is on the Beagle Channel, and the last outpost before the Antarctic, so has historical links with many of the great expeditions. It's on the edge of the Tierra del Fuego National Park, and, apart from a couple of small settlements on Chile's Isla Navarino across the Channel, is the southernmost city in the world. It is not the world's most charming place, rather sprawling and untidy, with a port which entertains both large cruise ships and container ships. It was originally established as a penal colony, and the maritime museum is housed in the old prison. This was a Brother-fest - lots of lovely scale models of the ships which discovered and subsequently charted this area, interesting bits of radio equipment, maps and photos of wrecks. There is even, oh joy of joys, a crumbling locomotive in the grounds! The museum also recounts the prison's history, as well as that of some of its inmates, among them Carlos Gardel, the original tango star, whose music I know and have danced to. There's quite a bit about the Yamana people, who have now died out, a reproduction of one of their bark canoes and some interesting artefacts belonging to Thomas Bridges, the missionary who documented their language and customs (see B Chatwin for further info). A large section on Antarctic sailors had one obvious omission, Shackleton, but given the fact that the Argentine claim on the Malvinas is very evident here, and that Drake is portrayed as an evil pirate (which, let's face it, is largely what he was), it's hardly surprising that Brits of note are ignored. Yesterday afternoon we went for a beautiful hike through Lenga woods along the coast. We passed charming bays with crystal waters, a pair of nesting kelp geese, sundry rabbits, sparrows and unidentified ducks. All clearly unfussed by our presence and happy carrying on with life regardless of humans passing through. It had snowed the night before on the mountains, so the backdrop was particularly picturesque, and in all a very pleasing landscape, with tree-covered peninsulas receding into the distance, the Channel always before us and the mountains surrounding it all. The temperature here is a chilly 10 degrees by day, down to -1 at night, with torrential rain and strong winds a pretty constant feature, and this is summer! Today another walk, with the first of our organised trips tomorrow.